User guide
Photo to model, start to finish
Everything you need to get a plan you can actually cut: how to shoot the building, how to calibrate the scale, how to read each sheet, and how to build from the printout.
01 / Photograph
Shoot photos Shrinkify can read
The plan is only as good as what the photos show. Five minutes of care here saves an hour of corrections later.
Do this
- +One straight-on shot of the front, standing back far enough that the walls look parallel.
- +At least one corner shot showing two sides at once — this is what gives depth.
- +A side elevation if you can get one, and the roof line against the sky.
- +Even, flat light. Overcast beats harsh midday sun and deep shadows.
Avoid
- −Extreme wide-angle or fisheye lenses — they bend the walls and skew proportions.
- −Heavy obstructions: parked cars, hedges across the base, people in front of the door.
- −Shots taken from far below looking up, which exaggerates height.
02 / Calibrate
Give it one real measurement
Photos give proportions, not certainty. A single known dimension turns the whole estimate from a guess into arithmetic.
Do this
- +Type a known dimension into the reference note: "the front door is 84 inches tall".
- +Good anchors: a standard door (80–84"), a garage door (84–96"), a brick course, a step riser (~7").
- +Add a second note about anything unusual — a raised foundation, a deep porch, a tall parapet.
Avoid
- −Leave the reference blank if you know a measurement — the model will assume typical residential sizes instead.
- −Contradict yourself across notes; the last stated dimension wins.
03 / Scale & stock
Pick a scale and your material
Scale decides how big the model gets. Stock thickness decides how the parts fit together.
Do this
- +1:12 for classic dollhouse furniture-compatible builds. 1:24 for a display piece. 1:48 for a shelf model.
- +Or set a target height — "18 inches tall" — and Shrinkify solves the ratio for you.
- +Match stock thickness to what's actually on your bench (1/8", 1/4", 1/2" and so on).
- +Everything is recomputed live in the Scale Bench, so try a few sizes before printing.
Avoid
- −Go below 1:48 on a detailed building — window openings get too small to cut cleanly.
- −Assume the cut list ignores thickness: side walls are shortened to account for butt joints.
04 / Read the plan
What each sheet means
A finished project has four things to read, in this order.
Do this
- +Assumptions — everything the model inferred. Read this first and correct anything wrong.
- +Cut list — every part, quantity, and finished size rounded to the nearest 1/32".
- +Elevations — scaled front, back and side drawings with openings positioned.
- +Cutting layout — parts nested on your sheet so you can see how much stock you need.
Avoid
- −Trust a dimension that contradicts the photo — edit it; the drawings and PDF follow.
- −Cut before dry-checking the largest panel against the elevation.
05 / Build
From printout to model
Download the PDF pack, take it to the bench, and work outside-in.
Do this
- +Print at 100% (no "fit to page") so the scale bar on the sheet stays true.
- +Cut the largest panels first, then openings, then the roof.
- +Dry-fit the box with tape before any glue goes on.
- +Sand edges after assembly, not before — it keeps joints tight.
Avoid
- −Cut window openings before the wall panel is squared.
- −Glue the roof on until the interior is finished and painted.
06 / Questions
Common questions
- How accurate are the dimensions?
- They are informed estimates. With a straight-on photo and one known measurement, the proportions are usually close; without a reference the model falls back to typical residential sizes. Every assumption is listed so you can correct it.
- Can I change the scale after generating?
- Yes. The Scale Bench on a saved project recomputes the cut list, drawings and PDF instantly — no new generation and no new photos needed.
- What material should I use?
- Baltic birch plywood or basswood sheet both cut cleanly at these sizes. Whatever you use, set the thickness in the project so joinery compensation is right.
- How many photos should I upload?
- Two to four is the sweet spot: front, a corner, and a side. Six is the maximum.
- Are my photos and projects private?
- Yes. Uploads live in private storage and every project is readable only by the account that created it.
Ready to try it?
Grab two or three photos and a known door height — that's genuinely all you need for a first plan.
Generate a plan